Various Spanish Wines -

Notes and impressions from a tasting of various Spanish wines - Saturday, February 16, 2002, at the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA. Twenty wines were poured for a tasting fee of $19.

Overall impressions: this was an interesting selection of some curent offerings from Spain. The one Priorat in the flight, the '97 Rotllan Toro, was just beautiful, with the Pingus a close runner-up. Though quite different from each other, the noses on both of these were fabulous. Biggest bargain in the bunch appears to be the Emilio Moro. At $20, it's a lot of wine for the money. The two Jumillas in the flight were both very good. The Casa Castillo gets a slight nod over the Casa de la Ermita with its added complexity. Both of these wines are enjoyable now, but have very good potential for mid-term aging.

On the other side of things, the Jean Leon was a mild disappointment. Rustic in style, and '...still tannic after all these years,' to paraphrase Paul Simon, I wonder if this wine will ever smooth out and get friendly. Also, the Finca and the Ramirez seemed to be the least attractive of the Riojas in the flight.

Individual Tasting Notes, in Order Tasted:

2000 Vinas Godeval - Valdeorras. $9.99. Nearly clear in color. Smells like a Santa Barbara Chardonnay in the nose, with floral, slightly oaky and tropical citrus aromas. Although fairly light on the palate, the fruit is crisp and tasty, with a very long finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

2000 Finca Luzon Merlot - Jumilla. $6.99. Dark ruby color. Effusive black raspberry, with some raw wood, licorice and shoe polish. Fleshy and slightly grapey, obvious oak, young, and still a bit rough on the palate, with a long partially bitter and tannic finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1999 Casa de la Ermita - Jumilla. $9.99. Dark ruby color. Very toasty nose of smoky cassis, blackberry, and new oak. Smooth and very tasty mouthfeel, slightly sweet fruit through long finish. Blend of Merlot, Tempranillo, and Cab.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Casa Castillo Las Gravas - Jumilla. $15.99. Nose of smoke, licorice and blackberry. Very clingy mouthfeel, with flavors of newly pressed grape must, licorice, and delicious fruit. Similar to the La Ermita, but more complex.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

2000 Joan d'Anguera La Planella - Tarragona. $9.99. Medium dark ruby color. Nice nose of cassis, oak, floral aromas and a touch of toasted grain. Moderately chewy mouthfeel, good fruity flavors, very tasty medium-long finish. Grenache and Cabernet based.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Joan d'Anguera Finca l'Argata - Tarragona. $15.99. Medium dark ruby color. Fragrant, slightly minty nose, with a nice spicy background note. Fresh grape skins, toasted grains across palate, with a very long tannic finish. Shiraz based blend.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score:B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Laurona Seleccio de 6 Vinyes - Tarragona. $23.99. Medium dark ruby color. Toasty floral cassis nose, with smooth cake spice aromas. Moderate-full mouthfeel, very long tannic finish. Lots of oak, but seems like deft usage.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1997 Rotllan Torra Tirant - Priorat. $59.99. Dark ruby color. Absolutely killer nose of toast, oak, blackberry, vanilla, cinnamon, and cocoa. Full bodied, with a massive grip on the palate that turns loose slowly, and smooths out through the very long finish.
Aroma score: A Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

1991 Torre Oria Grand Reserva - Utiel-Requnea. $9.99. Medium dark ruby color. Nose of sweet cassis and toast. Slightly soft in mouthfeel, but has obvious fruit and good palate coverage throughout, with a medium-long finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1994 Jean Leon Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva - Penedes. $19.99. Medium garnet ruby color. Lots of shoe polish, and toast, with a touch of spearmint in the nose. Decent enough flavors, though a bit rough on the palate, and it gets somewhat bitter and acidic on the finish. For a '94, it still seems kind of tight. Makes me wonder if this guy ever going to smooth out.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B- Overall score: B

1998 Vina San Roman - Toro. $26.99. Very dark ruby color. Big effusive and toasty nose, with cassis and malt notes. Big fruity and chewy mouthfeel, very tasty, but the fruit seems to quit a tad too early in the otherwise long finish.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B Overall score: B+

1998 Pago de los Capellanes Crianza - Ribera del Duero. $15.99. Medium-dark ruby color. Very fragrant and floral nose, with lots of ripe fruit and vanilla. Full mouthfeel, lightly chalky on the palate, with nice toasty fruit and long fruit-filled finish.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

 

Favorites, in Order of Preference:
1997 Rotllan Torra Tirant - Priorat. $59.99.
1999 Dominio de Pingus Flor de Pingus - Ribera del Duero. $35.99.
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1999 Emilio Moro - Ribera del Duero. $19.99.
1995 Roda I - Rioja. $44.99.
1998 Pago de los Capellanes Crianza - Ribera del Duero. $15.99.
1998 Vina San Roman - Toro. $26.99.
1999 Casa Castillo Las Gravas - Jumilla. $15.99.
1999 Casa de la Ermita - Jumilla. $9.99.
1999 Joan d'Anguera Finca l'Argata - Tarragona. $15.99.
1999 Laurona Seleccio de 6 Vinyes - Tarragona. $23.99.
2000 Joan d'Anguera La Planella - Tarragona. $9.99.
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1998 Solabal Crianza - Rioja. $9.99.
1996 Bodegas Lan Reserva Vina Lanciano - Rioja. $23.99.
2000 Finca Luzon Merlot - Jumilla. $6.99.
2000 Vinas Godeval - Valdeorras. $9.99.
1999 Sierra Cantabria - Rioja. $6.99.
1991 Torre Oria Grand Reserva - Utiel-Requnea. $9.99.
1994 Jean Leon Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva - Penedes. $19.99.
1998 Finca Allende - Rioja. $13.99.
1994 Ramirez de la Piscina Gran Reserva - Rioja. $21.99.


1999 Emilio Moro - Ribera del Duero. $19.99. Medium-dark ruby color. Very nice complex, almost Cab-like fruit in the nose, with cassis, toasty oak, spices, and shoe polish. Somewhat chewy mouthfeel, with excellent balance, very tasty fruit, a dose of new oak, and a very long seamless finish. Solid bottle of wine for $20.
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+

1999 Dominio de Pingus Flor de Pingus - Ribera del Duero. $35.99. Dark garnet ruby color. Nose of toast, casis, roasted nuts and grains - just fabulous! Full and chewy mouthfeel, lots of cassis, toast and vanilla flavors, great balance and long finish. Stunning nose; just a little less so in the mouth.
Aroma score: A Taste score: A- Overall score: A-

1999 Sierra Cantabria - Rioja. $6.99. Medium ruby garnet color. Fruity, floral, and slightly sweet in the nose. Moderate mouthfeel, good flavors, long finish. This is a nice wine - better than wines in the quaffer category, but at a quaffer price.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1998 Solabal Crianza - Rioja. $9.99. Medium ruby garnet color. Toasty nose, that seems to carry a slight tart-sour quality. Toasty and fruity mouthfeel, off-sweet fruit, very good balance, despite an obvious acid backbone, and very long finish.
Aroma score: B Taste score:B+ Overall score: B+

1998 Finca Allende - Rioja. $13.99. Dark ruby color. Nose of cassis, shoe polish, and toasty oak. Full mouthfeel, off-sweet and somewhat tight fruit, with a touch of bitterness to the acid-influenced finish. Seems to be a bit more rustic than the previous two Riojas.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1996 Bodegas Lan Reserva Vina Lanciano - Rioja. $23.99. Medium-dark ruby color. Slightly sweet cassis and raspberry, with a hint of leaf in the nose. A bit sour in mouthfeel, with a pushy acidity throughout its long finish. Seems to be well-made, and a definite step up from the prvious wine. But, the fruit is just a little more tart than I like.
Aroma score: B+ Taste score: B Overall score: B

1994 Ramirez de la Piscina Gran Reserva - Rioja. $21.99. Medium garnet ruby color. Somewhat funky in the nose with its obvious bottle bouquet. Aromas of raspberry tea, leather, and a touch of tobacco. Medium mouthfeel, with a long slightly oaky finish. Still has some interesting qualities, but it also seems lean and tired.
Aroma score: B Taste score: B Overall score: B

1995 Roda I - Rioja. $44.99. Dark garnet ruby color. A bit of bottle bouquet and funk in the nose, but still has lots of raspberry/cassis fruit as well. Slightly sweet and chalky mouthfeel, excellent balance, long finish. Nice complex wine, and not the least bit tired!
Aroma score: A- Taste score: B+ Overall score: B+


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